The winter, Sofie D'Hoore places renewed emphasis upon the dress as the epitome of effortless dressing. As always, every individual weave, weight and texture of the fabric, as well as the colours, informs the way the garments are created. The allure of D'Hoore’s work resides in her meticulous attention to cut, construction and finish. It means that every piece in the collection makes its own unique and independent statement, but is discreet enough to slip effortlessly into any wardrobe and lifestyle.
This season, silk comes to the fore in a group of dresses that work equally well for day or evening. Lightweight, fluid silk has been worked into a range of simple, feminine styles, whilst another group has been cut to emphasise the natural volume provided by a heavier weight Shantung silk. The Shantung garments feature an exclusive print, reminiscent of reflections, or tiny flashes of light in a darkened city, that was designed for Sofie D'Hoore by an artist in Bologna. With typical restraint, the pared down cut and construction of these dresses allows the sumptuous fabric, the print and the finely tuned colours to shine through int a gesture that is both minimal and luxurious. Cotton, in a new heavier weight satin finish, and wool crêpe, also feature in a series of A-line shift dresses and skirts.
A new fabric is premiered this season: double-faced cashmere. The result of a collaboration with one of the few remaining textile specialists still able to produce this exquisite fabric, Sofie D'Hoore has used it to create an ensemble of garments that, like couture, have been entirely handcrafted. An unlined, pared down ‘twin set’ of dress and matching jacket is a particular highlight. The sophisticated cut and couture techniques used in these garments make them the epitome of modern elegance and luxury.
The dresses and their ideal complement in a group of reversible boleros and longer coats in soft Lambskin. Finished with new, oversize faux-tortoiseshell press-studs sewn on like buttons, these garments elevate the very natural qualities of sheepskin to a luxurious new level whereby it could, at first glance, be perceived as a more precious fur. This play on contrasts, between silk and wool and between masculine and feminine, for example, gives rise to endless possibilities: dresses can be combined with toning or 4 contrasting cashmere cardigans, belted or worn loose, matched with heels or robust flats, or paired with boleros and gloves for a fresh contemporary feel. With echoes of 60s couture, the designer has created a collection that is both highly distinctive but open to endless personal interpretation.
The simplicity, colours and textures of the collection are mirrored in a tightly edited, intelligent and meticulously finished range of accessories. This season, the designer debuts an elegant new Mary lane shoe, with a small heel, whilst more masculine shoes in muted tones are the result of D'Hoore’s long-standing collaboration with Paraboot. The latter are an excellent contrast to the more feminine dresses in the collection. A range of butter soft, silk lined gloves can also be teamed with the bracelet length sleeves of the dresses for a new look that plays on the formal dress codes of yesteryear. Slim line clutch bags with detachable straps and a wonderfully large, updated version of a vintage-style framed handbag have both been executed in an exquisite palette of embossed leathers.